Hiking Grand Canyon – Day 3 Up to Indian Garden

Again we didn’t rush to get on the 4.7 mile (7.4 k) trail for the day and headed for the Silver Bridge at a still chilly below freezing 10:30am.

The Silver Bridge was constructed in the late 1960s to support the transcanyon pipeline carrying water from Roaring Springs to the South Rim.

This day, the Rio de Colorado, Spanish for “River of Color,” showed some of its truer ruddy self.

Since the completion of Glen Canyon Dam sediments are mostly trapped behind the dam typically leaving the river a crystal blue/green.

Fishery biologist holds brown trout

In addition, some native fishes adapted to the pre-dam warmer, muddier water, are becoming extinct in the cold, clear water which now supports introduced species.

Mule deer bucks none to anxious to leave the River trail

The Civilian Conservation Corps constructed the River Trail, which continues east to the South Kaibab trail and Black Bridge, between 1933 and 1936 to enable hikers and mule riders to reach Phantom Ranch from the Bright Angel Trail.

The 1.6 mile (2.4 km) River Trail climbs above and follows the river passing through a sand dune habitat with vertical walls of Vishnu Schist rising more than 1400 feet (427 m) above our heads.

Where Pipe Creek enters the Colorado River Bright Angel Trail begins it’s slow 3.1 mile (5 km) ascent to Indian Garden where we spent the night.

First following the meanders of Pipe Creek including several shallow crossings.

Next comes the switchbacks known as the Devils Corkscrew and the long traverse through the desert-like Vishnu Schist environment. Every time I hike this part it feels shorter.

This tops out into a narrows through the Tapeats Sandstone showing extensive erosion by Garden Creek.

Groundwater seeping through the rock layers above is stopped by the Bright Angel Shale layer on top of the sandstone and comes out in several springs which have been used by people over a 1000 years.

It’s such a delight to suddenly find myself back in the lush streamside habitat approaching Indian Garden, even with the snow dusted South Rim in sight.

It was an early dinner and quickly into the tent sort of night as we crawled into our sleeping bags to stay warm with a low of 13F and dream of the next day’s 4.6 miles (7.4 km) to top out on the South Rim.

MWT - Hiking Grand Canyon – Day 2 Staying close to camp

Snowing on the South Rim in the morning

I’d never hiked the South Kaibab trail into Grand Canyon before. It is a steep, 7 mile (11.26 km) ridge trail with no potable water. Not a great place to be during the heat of summer. However, a winter hike on it was ideal.

Bright Angel Camp

Unfortunately, my body didn’t quite agree about the ideal and was extremely exhausted after 7.5 hours downhill. Plus we basically didn’t get into camp until after dark.

Cabin rental through Xanterra

So the next day, after a very chilly mid 20 degree F night and sleeping in until 8am, we first explored Phantom Ranch.

The Canteen offers food & beverages, full meals require reservations

In 1922, the Fred Harvey Company commissioned Mary Jane Colter to redesign the original tourist camp built by David Rust twenty years earlier.

We went inside to warm up over a cup of cocoa and write postcards.

Everything used and sold here is carried in by mule train, as is all the garbage carried out.

After sitting in this warmth for a little while our legs started to stiffen up so we walked back to camp for water and snacks to hike back up the trail we came down after dark. The Bright Angel campground is nestled between Bright Angel Creek…

…and towering walls of 4.7 billion year old Vishnu Schist.

Closeup of the ancient schist with quartz and granite intrusions

Ranger residence

Though a remote and rugged setting, this area has long been a destination for humans.

Almost 1000 years ago native people called Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi) built their homes along the river.

Can’t say as I blame them.

Yet crossing the swift Colorado River had to be a hazardous undertaking before the National Park Service completed the present Kaibab Suspension Bridge in 1928.

The one-ton, 550-foot- long suspension cables were carried down into the canyon on the shoulders of mostly Havasupai tribesmen who walked single file down the trail while carrying the cables. And I thought carrying a 32 pound backpack was over much!

Confluence of Bright Angel Creek and Colorado River

But this day’s little hike was light and easy. And after seeing what was too dark to see the night before we headed back to camp.

Looking up at the snow on the South Rim

Thinking of the next day’s hike uphill. But that’s another story.

To tour more of the world go to My World Tuesday by clicking here.

Hitting a wall

On this most recent hike into the Grand Canyon I learned a few new things about my body and spirit. When I hit a wall, I can tunnel through and overcome physical obstacles as I soar.

Scenic Sunday – Ooh Aah

There are no bad views of the Grand Canyon. I tell visitors this all the time when asked “where’s the best view?” I just keep finding more “best” views. The above seen when hiking on the South Kaibab trail last Saturday as we approached Ooh Aah Point, a mere .9 miles (1.5 km) from the South Rim.

To view more beautiful scenes from around the world go to Scenic Sunday by clicking here.

Hiking Grand Canyon – Day 1 on the South Kaibab trail or It’s all downhill from here

Being only a 7 mile (11.1 km) hike down the South Kaibab trail to Bright Angel campground us “retirees” were in no rush to hit the trail at the crack of a below freezing dawn. We hit the trailhead at 10:30am.

Only a little snow on the rim and trail but we still put on our ice grippers then dropped over the edge to descend along switchbacks called The Chimney over through the 270 million year old Kaibab and Toroweap limestones.

O’Neill Butte

We continued our descent 1140 feet (348 m) past the 275 million year old Coconino sandstone to Cedar Ridge which sits on 280 million year old Hermit shale. This is a popular 3 mile (4.8 km) round-trip day hike destination and stopped to snack and enjoy the spectacular views. Already two hours into our hike and only 5 miles (8 km) to go. Feeling good!

O’Neill Butte up close

This butte was named after Buckey O’Neill who prospected in the canyon during the 1890s and promoted the railroad to the South Rim.

The endless views stopped us in our tracks almost every step of the way. Or was it the subtle aching in our knees?

From Skeleton Point (don’t ask why it’s named that) I could see the North Rim in the far distance and with binoculars just make out the Grand Lodge.

Looking over the edge I could even see Phantom Ranch, our destination for the next two nights, nestled in the fall colored trees. So close yet still 3.9 miles (6.3 km) away.

The next 500 vertical feet (150 m) of switchbacks, called The Red and Whites, drop along the 340 million year old Redwall limestone.

I had to remind myself to look back up once in awhile and was rewarded with this natural arch high above.

Yet most important was keeping my eyes on the trail, like at The Tipoff which plunges into the 1600 foot (488 m) deep Granite Gorge. Only 2.3 miles (3.7 km) to go.

With more views…

…at Panorama Point.

Then only 1200 feet (366 m), straight down, plus just over a mile more to the tunnel, Black Bridge and Colorado River through the 1.7 billion year old Vishnu Schist. Oh no, not more down. By now my right knee was very tender.

Once again I could see our destination and it seemed so close at hand. But it wasn’t until after sunset that we walked into Bright Angel campground, 7.5 hours after having left the South Rim.

We were exhausted. This is the first time I’ve had problems with my knees going downhill. Thank goodness we could enjoy a complete day of recovery in the bottom of the canyon before making the climb back out.

I will post more of this four day hike, but in the meantime I hope you’ll check out another perspective in Mike’s post by clicking here.

SWF – Sunset from the canyon

Sunset over the Colorado River from South Kaibab trail

Hiking into Grand Canyon provides so many different experiences and stimuli as to put my mind and body on the verge of overload. After four days surrounded by the ancient stone walls, coming back to the South Rim world slapped culture shock right in my face. I’d have returned to the abyss if my legs would have carried me.

To view more elegant skies from around the world, or to share your own, go to Sky Watch Friday by clicking here.

I’ll be posting the hike very soon.