Description

I own no land, instead I have wheelestate. I’ve been a full time RVer since 1997. Working summers as a Park Ranger takes me to many beautiful places and playing during the winter takes me to many more. This blog is simply the story of my life's adventures.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Elephants in Kruger National Park

01 Elephant Night ride Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

“I want to see an oliphant,” said Samwise to Frodo.

02 Elephant shaking head in threat display Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (527x571)

I believe the elephant was my favorite animal in all of South Africa. They are huge and stately.

03 Elephant dung Kruger NP H7 E Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

Joan said never drive over the elephant dung, it is full of thorns. Although elephants spend about 16 hours a day eating 300-600 pounds (140–270 kilograms) of leaves, bark, fruit, shrubs, grasses and herbs they only digest about 40% of what they eat.

04 Elephant Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x598)

African elephants are the largest land animal alive today. Males stand 10-13 feet (3.2-4 meters) at the shoulder and weigh 7700-26000 pounds (3500-12000 kilograms). The female is smaller, standing about 9.8 feet (3 meters) at the shoulder. They typically live for 50 to 70 years.

Elephants live in a structured social order and the social lives of male and female elephants are very different. The females spend their entire lives in tightly knit family groups made up of mothers, daughters, sisters, and aunts. These groups are led by the eldest female, or matriarch. When a group gets too big, a few of the elder daughters will break off and form their own small group.

06 Elephants Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

A female will usually be ready to breed around the age of thirteen, when she comes into estrus, or heat, and attracts a male through scent and audible signals. Because the female can usually outrun the male, she does not have to mate with every male that approaches her. Yet the mating season is short and females are only able to conceive for a few days each year. She will detach herself from the herd. After a twenty-two-month pregnancy, the mother gives birth to a calf that weighs about 250 pounds (115 kg) and stands over 2.5 feet (75 cm) tall. Elephants have a very long development and a new calf is usually the center of attention for herd members.

07a Elephant Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (600x800)

The life of the adult male is very different. As he gets older, he begins to spend more time at the edge of the herd, gradually going off on his own for hours or days at a time. Eventually, days become weeks, and somewhere around the age of fourteen, the mature male, or bull, sets out from his natal group for good. While males do live primarily solitary lives, they will occasionally form loose associations with other males. These groups are called bachelor herds.

08 Elephant shaking head in threat display Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

The dominance battles between males can look very fierce, but typically they inflict very little injury. Most of the bouts are in the form of aggressive displays and bluffs like spreading its ears out wide to look more massive and imposing. Ordinarily, the smaller, younger, and less confident animal will back off before any real damage can be done.

09 Elephant skeleton Elephant Museum Letaba Rest Camp Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

Elephant Museum Letaba Rest Camp

 With a mass just over 11 pounds (5 kilograms), elephant brains are larger than those of any other land animal. A wide variety of behaviors associated with intelligence have been attributed to elephants. Gender can be determined by the shape of the skull, males have rounded foreheads while females look rather square.

10 Elephant heart Elephant Museum Letaba Rest Camp Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (600x800)

Elephant heart Elephant Museum Letaba Rest Camp

An adult heart can weigh between 26-61 pounds (12-28 kilograms) making up about 0.5% of the total body weight, which is similar to the relative weight of a human heart.

11 Tailless Elephant Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

Tailless male

Elephants make a number of sounds when communicating. The famous trumpet call made when the animal blows through its nostrils and used during excitement like startlement, a cry for help or rage. Plus they produce a low-frequency rumbling which can travel in the air and through the ground up to 6 miles (10 kilometers). They have an exceptional sense of hearing but not only through the ears. The trunk is very sensitive to vibrations as are their feet. Elephants are observed listening by putting trunks on the ground and carefully positioning their feet.

12 Elephant Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

The proboscis, or trunk, is a fusion of the nose and upper lip, elongated and specialized to become the elephant's most important and versatile appendage. African elephants are equipped with two fingerlike projections at the tip of their trunk. The elephant's trunk is sensitive enough to pick up a single blade of grass, yet strong enough to rip the branches off a tree. They will graze on grass or reach up into trees to grasp leaves, fruit, or entire branches. If the desired food item is too high up, the elephant will wrap its trunk around the tree or branch and shake its food loose or sometimes simply knock the tree down altogether.

The trunk is also used for drinking. Elephants suck water up into the trunk—up to 15 quarts (14 liters) at a time—and then blow it into their mouth. Elephants also suck up water to spray on their body during bathing. On top of this watery coating, the animal will then spray dirt and mud, which dries off and acts as a protective sunscreen. Wallowing also aids the skin in regulating body temperatures. Elephants have difficulty in releasing heat through the skin because, in proportion to their body size, they have very little of it.

14 Elephants Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

This appendage also plays a key role in many social interactions. Familiar elephants will greet each other by entwining their trunks, much like a handshake. They also use them while play-wrestling, caressing during courtship and mother-child interactions, and for dominance displays.

15 Elephant Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (418x800)

The large flapping ears of an elephant are also very important for temperature regulation. Elephant ears are made of a very thin layer of skin stretched over cartilage and a rich network of blood vessels. On hot days, elephants will flap their ears constantly, creating a slight breeze. This breeze cools the surface blood vessels, and then the cooler blood gets circulated to the rest of the animal's body. The hot blood entering the ears can be cooled as much as 10 F (12.22 C) before returning to the body.

16 Elephant foot skeleton Elephant Museum Letaba Rest Camp Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (600x800)

Although they appear to be flat-footed, they are in fact digitigrade meaning they walk on the toes. Their weight rests on the tip of each toe and a fibrous cushion of cartilage under the heel that acts like shock absorber.  The feet of an elephant are nearly round. Under the elephant's weight the foot swells, but it gets smaller when the weight is removed. They can attain a speed of about 18mph (30kph). 

17 Elephants Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

Both male and female African elephants have large tusks that can reach over 10 feet (3 meters) in length and weigh over 200 pounds (90 kilograms) and grow continuously at about 7 inches (18 cm) a year.

18 Gaelyn by Mafunyane skull & tusks Elephant Museum Letaba Rest Camp Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (600x800)

57 year old Mufunyane

Tusks are used to dig for water, salt, and roots; to debark trees to eat the bark; to dig into baobab trees to get at the pulp inside; and to move trees and branches when clearing a path. In addition, they are used for marking trees to establish territory and occasionally as weapons.

19 Tailless Elephant Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x582)

Like humans being right or left handed, elephants are right or left tusked so uneven wear can be seen on the dominant tusk. Yet unlike most mammals, which grow baby teeth and then replace them with a permanent set of adult teeth, elephants have cycles of tooth rotation throughout their entire life. Molars are replaced five times in an average elephant's lifetime moving horizontally, like a conveyor belt. New teeth grow in at the back of the mouth, pushing older teeth toward the front, where they wear down with use and the remains fall out. Eventually, when the last teeth fall out, the elephant will be unable to eat and will die of starvation.

20 Elephant Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

Healthy adults have no natural predators although lions may take calves or weak individuals. They are, however, threatened by human intrusion and poaching. The South African elephant population more than doubled, rising from 8,000 to over 20,000, in the thirteen years after a 1995 ban on the trade in elephant ivory.

21 Ivory display Elephant Museum Letaba Rest Camp Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (303x800)    

The elephant’s tusk is both its blessing and its curse because of human’s desire for ivory and their senseless slaughter to get it. The visible, ivory part of the tusk is made of dentine with an outer layer of enamel. Elephant ivory is unique when viewed in cross-section revealing criss-cross lines that form a series of diamond shapes. Elephant ivory has been used for making many things including billiard balls, piano keys, jewelry and carvings.

22 Elephants Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x654)

Another threat to elephant's survival in general is the ongoing cultivation of their habitats with increasing risk of conflicts of interest with human cohabitants. Even official reserves like Kruger National Park with fences may restrict migration, or have to deal with over crowding. Yet these special places may be the last hope for the magnificent elephant in this changing world.

I can’t won’t apologize for the length of this post. It took forever to download on dialup. Maybe could have done it in multiple parts. Yet I have so much more to post from South Africa and I return to work as a Park Ranger on the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park April 22nd, where I’ll thankfully have DSL. So I’m running out of time. Oh yea, and there’s the hike into Havasu Canyon before that.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Shongololo

01 Shonglolo millipede Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

So how many legs does a millipede grow?

02 Shongololo millipede Kruger NP H7 E Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

When Joan pointed out the shongololo millipede on the road in Kruger National Park I thought she was kidding. They are so big, about 10 inches (25.4 cm).

03 Night train millipede (500x375)

Not like what I’m used to seeing in the Pacific Northwest where the night trains get no bigger than 1.5 inches (3.81cm).

04 Shonglolo millipede Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

In actuality, they only have 102 pairs of legs. The babies hatch with only three pairs of legs and acquire more at each molt. Although they have so many short legs and move rather slow they are powerful burrowers easily forcing their way underground head first moving their body in a wavelike pattern. They are detritivores, eating decaying leaves and dead plant matter.

05 Shonglolo Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (600x800)

Due to their lack of speed and their inability to bite or sting, millipedes' primary defense mechanism is to curl into a tight coil—protecting their delicate legs inside an armored body exterior.

06 Shonglolo Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (489x575)

Many species also emit poisonous liquid secretions or hydrogen cyanide gas, smells like cherries, as a secondary defense.

07 Shongololo Express train in mountains (482x325)

And then there’s the Shongololo Express named by indigenous people upon seeing trains winding through the hillsides.

Monday, April 5, 2010

MWT – Lions at Kruger NP

01 Lioness Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

I held my breath and my heart stopped beating as the lions walked no more than 10 feet (3.048 meters) from Joan’s truck, just ambling past up the road. The lion is the second largest living cat in the world after the tiger, and we were in a Toyota.

02 Lioness Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (600x800)

Panthera leo evolved in Africa between 1 million and 800,000 years ago.

03 Sunrise R531 E Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

Sunrise R531 East, Mpumalanga

It rained a little the night before entering Kruger National Park. The air smelled a clean green like no other than Mpumalanga Lowveld, a low subtropical woodland region with thick scrubby trees and dense thickets of thorn bushes with grassy undercover between.

04 Female lions Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x496)

First two females walked past, one stopping to call for cubs with her gentle yet insistent “cha…cha…cha” voice, like “it’s all clear.”  Females can mate throughout the year with a 110 day gestation period then typically birth 3-4 cubs. Lions live on average 10 to 15 years in the wild, longer in captivity.

Two female lions & 5 cubs stoll past

Next five cubs strolled past with the confidence of youth in numbers. Young cubs are vulnerable to predation by hyenas, leopards and black backed jackals. They begin hunting at about 11 months and stay with their mothers for two years. Lion populations are untenable outside of designated reserves and national parks primarily due to habitat loss and conflicts with humans.

06 Male lions & cub Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x595)

The males sauntered in behind and promptly plopped down on the warm tarmac/asphalt. Males can weigh in excess of 550 pounds (250 kilograms) and boast impressive manes of a long hair fringe that encircles their heads.

07 Male lions & cubs Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x671)

They were patient with the cubs and appeared to be brothers, almost like regreeting each other. Fiercely protective of his pride, or family unit, male lions patrol a vast territory normally covering about 100 square miles (260 square kilometers).

08 Old female & cub lions Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (569x431)

An old female carrying her long life scars brought up the rear. Female lions are the pride's primary hunters. They often work together to prey upon antelopes, zebras, wildebeest, and other large animals of the open grasslands. Many of these animals are faster than lions, so teamwork pays off. They normally eat about twice a week yet many lion hunts are surprisingly unsuccessful because they lack stamina and even though they can run up to 35 mph (60 kmh) they can only sustain it for awhile.

09 Lions Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x509)

They all moved like no one else was around, not a care in the world except to enjoy the warmth radiating up from the pavement while several car loads of visitors stayed in their cages and watched in amazement clicking as many photographs as possible. Myself included.

10 Lion cubs Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

Lions are the only cats that live in groups called prides, a family unit that may include up to three males, a dozen or so females, and their young. All of a pride's lionesses are related, and female cubs typically stay with the group as they age. Young males eventually leave and establish their own prides by taking over a group headed by another male.

12 Male lion Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

They can sleep for up to 24 hours a day.

11 Female lion Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x600)

I have no concept of time or how long we sat mesmerized. Eventually I remembered to take some video. Have to admit I’m no cinematographer, and hope at least a small clip will download over dialup. (You may have to wait until I’m back on DSL next month. ;-)

13 Male lions Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (216x273)

Both male and female lions roar, and that roar can be heard over five miles away.

Lions weren’t the first wildlife seen on this first day in Kruger National Park. We saw all the Big 5, plus more which I’ll be posting soon.

To visit more of the world, or to share some of your own, go to My World Tuesday by clicking here.

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Sunday, April 4, 2010

The Blessing

02 Gaelyn & Mike prep for blessing Yarnell ZA (320x238)

We sat outside the sweat lodge about dusk where Mike gave me a powerful and loving blessing.

03 Starting smudge with feather (320x240)

Smudging with sage smoke helps centering, cleanses and serves as protection. 

04 Mike blessing Gaelyn with feather (320x240)

The Hopi say Eagle’s feather will carry prayers to the Creator as the Creator sent Eagle to the people.

05 Mike blessing Gaelyn with corn pollen (320x240)

Yellow corn pollen comes as a special gift for rebirth and growth.

I felt so calm yet filled with such positive loving energy.

Friday, April 2, 2010

African Queen

I don’t know where to start posting on my recent adventure to South Africa. I saw, experienced and learned so much along this journey.

01 Joan on Sterkspruit Falls trail Drakensburg KwaZulu-Natal ZA (600x800)

Joan along the Sterkspruit Falls trail in the Drakensburg KwaZulu-Natal

Perhaps I should introduce my “tour guide” Joan from SouthAfricanPhotographs. I’d never had made it there let alone learned to survive without her positive encouragement and fantastic company.

02 Joan Cradle of Humankind Museum ZA (800x600)

Joan at the Cradle of Humankind Museum

Joan and I met online as bloggers sharing nature photos of our parts of the world.

03 Emerald Schaffer Pretoria ZA (800x592)

Joan holding an Emerald Schaffer

She really knows how to discover the big and small of any environment visited.

04 Joan photographing bugs Dinosaur Park ZA (800x600)

Joan photographing bugs Dinosaur Park

Joan is into bugs, OK call them insects if you want. She’s been called the Bug Lady and is undertaking a Huge project to get identification info out on the cyberworld.

05 Joan taking bug photo Dinosaur Park ZA (800x594)

During the nine month plan for me to visit South Africa for all of March I didn’t really lock myself into dates other than arrival in Johannesburg and departure from Cape Town.

06 Joan at Potholes Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve Mpumalanga ZA (800x599)

Joan at Burkes Luck Potholes

However, I had made an unrealistically long list of possible places to visit along the journey. Which began with traveling with Joan for 15 days through Mpumalanga’s Sadwala cave, to several steep waterfalls, over rivers and on safari in Kruger National Park, past Swaziland into the KwaZulu-Natal’s Drakensburg Park plus more.

07 Joan making coffee Pretoriuskop Rest Camp Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x599)

Joan making coffee Pretoriuskop Rest Camp Kruger NP

She spoiled me every morning making coffee. Of course she did get me out of bed no later than 5am. ;-)

08 Joan Monks Cowl camp Drakensburg KwaZulu-Natal ZA (800x468)

Joan Monks Cowl camp Drakensburg

Our camps were always comfortably outfitted with Joan’s tent.

09 Chameleon Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (729x800)

Joan holding a chameleon in Kruger National Park

Five days in Kruger National Park could have been five years or more. Joan worked as a wildlife guide there for over 20 years and knows about the habitats and where to look for the animals and birds, reptiles and of course bugs. In her soft almost UK like accent, maybe called Africans, she explained how much an elephant eats, what the gestation period is for a giraffe, taking pictures of an unknown amount of bugs in caravan parks’ bathrooms, and how to peel a marula fruit.

10 Marula fruit Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x719)

Joan peeling a marula, very tasty

We shared our herstories as we journeyed along laughing away, both happily comfortable with each others company. It is unique to find a good travel buddy and often doesn’t work out even with the best of friends. I can truly call Joan my friend, a sister of sorts.

11 Zebra Kruger NP Mpumalanga ZA (800x535)

Zebras dazzling (LOL)

What I learned and experienced while on this vacation holiday go way beyond the friendly people and diverse places. I grew so much within and can only thank all who I made contact with.

12 Guides tip jar Sudwala Cave ZA (800x600)

(I hope Joan won’t let this all go to her head but her heart instead.)

All photos can be enlarged with a simple click.

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